Rubbing exploits this by simulating several passes of pin-at-a-time picking in a few "strokes" across the pin stacks. Unless the cue ball passes the head string before that touch, the shot is a foul when the cue ball is in hand behind the head string, and the first ball it contacts is also behind the head string. The break shot starts the game, where a player strikes the racked balls with the cue ball. When setting up a game of billiards, the first step is to rack the balls in the triangular rack, with the 1-ball at the top and the 8-ball in the center. What are the 8-ball pool rules? STRAIGHT POOL RULES The cue ball does not make contact with an object ball. Additionally, practicing basic shots and learning the fundamentals of ball control will set a strong foundation for your billiards journey. It's much easier to learn each skill in isolation, using locks specifically set up for the purpose. Success in lock picking is mostly a matter of skill. Much of this is simply a matter of individual preference, but certain choices here can also have an impact on performance. Picking depends on weaknesses in the implementation of locks -- small manufacturing imperfections -- rather than fundamental, abstract design flaws that would be present no matter how carefully made the locks might be.

Many manufacturers outfit their picks with elaborate and supposedly "ergonomic" handles, but these often hinder performance as much as they might enhance it. It is not clear what some of these picks are intended to actually do. These imperfections are very small -- as little as .0001 inches in some cases -- but they are what allow us to manipulate ("pick") locks open without using the correct key. This style of tool is especially useful for holding open automotive locks that have spring-loaded dust covers. Another style of torque tool has two "prongs" that fit in the top and bottom of the keyway, with a cutout between them for the pick. In general, the torque tool should be as thick as possible while still fitting in the keyway, and of a width sufficient to provide good control but without interfering with the picking tool's access to the pins. The pick must be strong enough to resist bending or breaking while lifting pins, yet the shaft must be small and thin enough to maneuver freely around the keyway without disturbing other pins. Picks probe and lift the individual pin tumblers through the keyway, while torque tools control the degree and force of plug rotation.

It feels "springy," as it does when no torque is applied. Learn what a pin in that state feels like. If you tried to rotate the plug of such a lock without a key in the keyway, the top pin segment of each pin stack would block the plug at exactly the same number of degrees of rotation; each pin stack would contribute equally to preventing the plug from turning. It won't turn, of course, because the cut of the (single) pin stack is still below the shear line and its top pin is preventing the plug from rotating. Pin tumbler lock picking consists of raising the cuts on each pin stack to the shear line, one by one, until the plug turns freely. The basic design consists of a rotatable cylinder tube, called the plug, linked to the underlying locking mechanism. The underlying locking mechanism is still mechanical and may be subject to mechanical bypass. The design is based on the late 18th century British Bramah lock (still in production and use today). Do not push up hard against the pins; use just enough pressure to cause the pin stacks to jump.

Instead, they use flat "wafers," typically extending across the full height of the plug. The height (or cut depth) of a key under each pin stack position is called its bitting; the bitting of a key is the "secret" needed to open a lock. Right: Side view, with part of the shell and plug cut away to expose the six pin stacks. Typical commercial and residential locks have five or six pin stacks (although four and seven aren't unheard of), with from four to ten distinct cut depths used on each. Many experienced locksmiths and expert lock pickers prefer "home made" tools to the commercial selections, especially for picking unusual and high security locks. The most common security pins are the "spool" and "mushroom" top pin designs, which are thinner in their mid-section. In practice, of course, locks aren't perfect: the pin holes in the plug are slightly out of alignment with respect to the shell and the pins and pin holes are each of a slightly different diameter. In an ideal lock, all of the pin holes in the plug would be in perfect alignment with the corresponding holes in the shell, the centerline of the plug would be exactly parallel to that of the shell, and all of the pins would be exactly the same diameter.

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